The last day starts with the iconic Langdale Pikes after which there are no big mountains but plenty of good views, potential tea shopping and places to look back
on the Pilgrimage. If you've completed the route don't forget to sign
the finishers book at Cragg Cottage and claim your tea and scones!
From the Old Dungeon Ghyll, take the path by Dungeon Ghyll if you don't fabcy the scramble up the West Face. Otherwise go up Mickleden and Troughton Beck and then traverse to the base of the exposed scramble up the face of the Pike. This is superbly situated and lands you on the knobbly little summit which is one of the most distinctive points of the District. The way to Harrison Stickle is obvious or rather better is the scramble up the face a little way further right.
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| Pavey Ark and Jacks Rake from Stickle Tarn |
For a different experience, you can descend from Pavey Ark by the exposed groove of Jack's Rake, but if this isn't for you, the path to the East provides an alternative. Crossing the ridge to Easedale takes you into Wordsworth country and Grasmere of gingerbread fame. It also hosts a rather good jigsaw shop, bookshop and abounds in cafes. There's a youth hostel in the village but if the weather is fine, ascend the path to Alcock Tarn for a serene night above the lights of the village.
No big mountains today. but plenty of good views, potential tea
shopping and places to look back on the Pilgrimage. If you've completed
the route don't forget to sign the finishers book at Cragg Cottage and
claim your tea and scones!
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| Grasmere from the Alcock Tarn path |
As you descend from Alcock Tarn you pass the summit
of Butter Crags, the high point of the annual Grasmere Senior Guides
Race. The record for the up and down race from Grasmere is a
frightening 12 minutes and 21 seconds. Set your watch and note how far
you've got in this time and you'll see how remarkable this is. Don't
rush though, as its a delightful path down to White Moss Common.
From there you can turn divert right to Dove Cottage to visit the home of William Wordsworth and the museum next door.
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| Bluebells at Rydal |
You are unlikely to be 'wandering lonely as a cloud'
on the track to Rydal which is the route by which coffins were taken
from Rydal to Grasmere. Don't miss the opportunity to walk through the
gardens of Rydal Hall, a retreat and conference centre run by the
Diocese of Carlisle. If its a fine day, it's a peaceful place to sit
and reflect. There's a camp site and bunkhouse as well as hotel
accommodation and a tea shop by the waterfall.
From
here its a stroll into Ambleside, the South Lakes capital of tea and
outdoor shops. My personal favourite is the Rattle Gill, just off the
main street in a hidden courtyard. Powered by suitable refreshment, you
will zip up the well made path to the summit of Wansfell and down the
other side to Troutbeck. Troutbeck church dates back to at least the
16th century and unusually is known as the Jesus Church rather than
after a saint.
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| The view from Orrest Head |
The path to Windermere opens up extensive views of
the main Lakeland peaks and Windermere lake, which is conducive to
reflecting on the journey so far. It passes Allen Knott, a Dark Age
hill fort, probably used as a lookout post; and the summit of Orrest
Head, both some of the best viewpoints in the District. There's
accommodation and food options aplenty in Windermere as well as a
station and supermarket just down from where the route crosses the main
road. We immediately cross the road past a housing estate and on to
School Knott, from where the Dales Way takes us to Staveley. The
terrain is undulating and unspectacular, but makes very pleasant walking
through the fields.
Staveley is a thriving village
with a wood turning yard that now hosts many businesses including Wilfs
Cafe, an artisan bakery and the Hawkshead Brewery Hall. Have a treat
before you cross the river on a footbridge and join the small road past
Cragg Wood. Its worth a diversion into the natural woodland before
continuing on to Potter Tarn and Gurnal Dubs.
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| Gurnal Dubs at sunset |
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The latter is the finer and comes complete with
boathouse. The main path winds down to the South East, but a better end
is to take the indistinct path North East from the stile at the South
East end of the tarn and cross to Ulgraves, a nice little summit and
viewpoint over Longsleddale. Head South from the summit to a gate and
keep left of the lovely tarns before crossing the wall by a stone
stile.
Go from here to Carl Crag and make your way
to the deer fence. You can carry on down by the side of the fence to
cross the wall to the road or else weave circuitously through the wood
to end at Garnett Bridge. All that remains is to claim your tea and
scones.
Day 7 Details
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