This is a high level day taking in the two mountain cathedrals of Pillar Rock and Scafell and the classic hostelry of the Wasdale Head Inn. If the weather plays ball, this is a day of superlatives: the most
dramatic ravine in the District, the highest peak, one of the greatest
cliffs, one of the wildest valleys.
 |
| Pillar Rock |
From Black Sail Hostel, you could ascend to Black Sail Pass and follow the High Level Route to Robinsons Cairn, but despite the slog, I recommend walking down the valley and crossing a little bridge to ascend directly to the bottom of Pillar Rock. This shows the full extent and power of the Rock which soars above the valley. Its a bit of a slog, but eventually relents to make a spectacular walk to the left of the Rock. When you hit the path from Robinsons Cairn, follow it to the gap by Pillar Rock and go up and down Slab & Notch to the top. If you have a rope you can abseil down to Jordan Gap, but otherwise you must come down the same way. If you don't fancy the scramble up Pillar Rock, a much easier scramble can be taken up Pisgah, the pinnacle before the gap. This is worthwhile in its own right and the top of the Rock almost feels in touching distance despite the chasm beneath your feet.
There are good views back down to the Rock on the way up Pillar, the summit of which is a bit of an anti climax after all that has gone before. You'll probably not want to hang around on the bald summit so continue on the stony ridge to Scoat Fell and make sure that you go over to Steeple. No prizes for guessing the origin of its name - its a fine little top. The hills get more rounded and less rocky as you leave Scoat Fell, but if its clear, the nearer you get to Wastwater, the better the views.
You reach the road at Greendale, home and farm of the most famous fellrunner in Britain, Joss Naylor. His achievements are legend as is his humility and support of others. Reflect on how a man could do a hard day's farming and then run 20 miles in the rain for fun. When you reach the lake, you may see divers. This is the deepest lake in the District and even has its own legend of a lake monster, but this has never really taken off like the famed Nessie.
 |
| Wastwater from Scafell |
You will pass the youth hostel which is an attractive 1820s mansion set in beautiful grounds. Its a rather grand place to stay at little cost, with a fine view of the Screes opposite, but a steep ascent of the Screes awaits. Its a stiff pull but the views on the ridge to Illgill Head are more than adequate compensation.
Before you arrive at the head of the valley, you'll pass the National trust Camp Site and I recommend following the road to the pub rather than the footpath as you may well have wet feet if you go this way. A beer and hot meal await you at the Wasdale Head Inn!
 |
| Above Piers Gill |
My favourite way up Scafell Pike is Piers Gill. The
gill is a Severe climb but there's a path to the side. It's the most
spectacular ravine in the District which splits the hillside up to
Lingmell. You can follow the path up to the large cairn on Scafell
Pike, but if you're a climber and have a rope, why not drop down below
Pikes Crag and tackle Crenation Ridge, a 'Diff' climb that takes an
obvious arete up Pikes Crag to finish on Pulpit Rock.
 |
| The top of Lords Rake |
You are unlikely to be alone for long on the pike,
but once beyond Mickledore, the three peakers are left far behind. You
can drop down to the East before reaching the gully and stream that rise
to Foxes tarn, but preferable is the route up Lords rake and Deep
Ghyll. The scramble isn't particularly meritorious but it takes you
into grand surroundings, especially if you make the detour to the top of
Scafell Pinnacle.
Descend into wild Eskdale, reaching
Sampsons Stones at the bottom. It's a boggy trog to Lingcove beck but
once you reach the packhorse bridge, the trail improves. The bridge is a
special place on a sunny day with an idyllic pool beckoning. The
sheepfold by the bridge makes a great campsite.
Day 5 Details
