Day 2 starts with a rough exploratory wander up and down the coves between Fairfield and Helvellyn. It then take the classic Striding Edge and the Alpine traverse above the fjord-like Ullswater to the waterfall of Aira Force and knobbly hill of Gowbarrow. The day continues with the rough moorland to the foot of Blencathra, and ends on the classic aretes of Sharp Edge and Hallsfell.
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| Cofa Pike and Seat Sandal |
After savouring the dawn, descend to the cove and cross the ridge of Hartsop above How to descend to Greenhow end. The scramble ends on a stony ridge that you follow to the main path taking you to the summit of Fairfield. The characterful little top of Cofa Pike is worth the tiny detour for the view back toward Greenhow End.
From the col between Fairfield and Cofa Pike, descend the screes on a slanting, scree laden path to the tarn. Just off the path below the outflow of the tarn is the Brothers Parting Stone. An inscribed stone marks the place at which William Wordsworth last saw his brother John. I'll leave you to read the inscription about a last parting.
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| Hard Tarn - a jewel |
After following the path toward Glenridding for a little way, ascend steeply up the broken ground to reach Cock Cove, a secluded little cove that continues the exploratory feel of the morning's route. There's a short ascent to the narrow little ridge of the Tongue with a rough descent to Ruthwaite Cove.
This cove is a wild place surrounded by broken cliffs. At its Northern edge, a stream is followed to reach Hard Tarn, a tiny jewel of a lake kept in place by a glacial slab and a perfect place to savour the landscape. Take a rightward slanting line from here to avoid the steepest ground until you reach the East Ridge of Nethermost Pike from which you are likely to see a line of ants crawling over Striding Edge. After a morning on the wild side, it may come as a bit of shock to encounter the hordes on Helvellyn, but people notwithstanding, Striding Edge is always worthwhile. Keep to the crest to enjoy it to the full. Its a very easy scramble, but for those of a nervous disposition, Swirral Edge offers an alternative way down to Red Tarn.
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| Striding Edge from Nethermost Gully |
The motorway path from here takes you to the cottages and huts by the mines. Helvellyn Youth Hostel is a short distance down the track toward Glenridding, or you could continue on a three kilometre diversion into Glenridding village for the range of accommodation and refreshments available there. Otherwise take the Sticks Pass path past the disused lead mines of Greenside.
During the 1940s it was the largest producer of lead ore in the UK. Just before it closed the mine was used by the Atomic Weapons Research Establishment to conduct an experiment in detecting seismic signals from underground explosions.
The path that leads to Aira Force traverses steep hillsides and is almost reminiscent of an Alpine path, especially where it overlooks the deeply entrenched Ullswater. Aira Force is a well known tourist attraction, and although its hardly Niagara Falls, it did inspire William Wordsworth to write three poems. You'll pass Lyulph's Tower as you walk towards the memorial Seat. This is a former hunting lodge, with all of Gowbarrow having made up part of a medieval hunting estate.
You may want to take refreshments at the Royal Hotel at Dockray, before following the Old Coach road past High Row, and then a more indistinct path over the moor to Scales. This is an exposed, rather bleak place, so the fire at White Horse Inn may be very welcome. There's a bunkhouse as well as hotel accommodation.
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| Sharp Edge at sunrise |
Blencathra rises right behind Scales. On breasting
the lip of Mousthwaite Combe, Sharp Edge comes into view and from there
holds the gaze for most of the approach. The edge itself is formed of
clean rock and is over all too soon. The exit up Foule Crag can be
slippy and unpleasant but will 'go' in any condition. The scramble can
be avoided in its entirety by taking the path up Scales Fell from the
tarn.
Another rocky ridge leads down (Hallsfell) to Threlkeld and this can be slippy when wet. Refreshments can be taken in the village or you can continue along small roads to the camp site at Burns Farm.
Day 2 Details
