The third day kicks off with the stone circle on the way to the top of Walla Crag. The shores of Derwentwater lead to the cafes and gear shops of Keswick, and from there to the shapely folds of the Grasmoor fells and down to beautiful Buttermere. Its a stiff pull up to the climbs on Grey Crag and a high level saunter to the best bothy in the Lakes.
A combination of small roads and paths lead to the Castlerigg Stone Circle. The circle was probably constructed around 3200 BC (Late Neolithic/Early Bronze-Age), making it one of the earliest stone circles in Britain and possibly in Europe. It may have been a meeting place where axes were traded or exchanged. Some stones in the circle have been aligned with the midwinter sunrise
and various lunar positions.
There is a tradition that it is impossible to count the number of
stones within Castlerigg, where every attempt will result in a different
answer but most reckon that its somewhere between 38 and 42.
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| Top of Walla Crag |
Its an easy walk to the top of Walla Crag which offers a remarkable view over Derwentwater immediately below the cliff. A path to the South West allows a more moderate descent to the lakeside path that passes Friars Crag, a place of great beauty notwithstanding the many people. This is a good place to amble as are the parks that lead into the great capital of gear and tea shops that is Keswick. As you pass the Moot Hall in the market place, think of the Bob Graham runners for whom this is the starting and end point of a 24 hour (or less) run over 42 peaks.
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| Ard Crags and Crag Fell |
Having availed yourself of refreshment and perhaps topped up on food stores, continue ambling toward Braithwaite where there is a good camp site. The next section has a distinct character due to the mudstones and slate that lies underneath. These are grassy and rounded but shapely and forgiving hills. For a change, the route follows a natural ridge line from Barrow to Grasmoor and form then over Whiteless Pike and down to the inviting village of Buttermere.
If you're strong, the run off Whiteless Pike can be very exhilarating and fast. Buttermere offers a range of accommodation options including youth hostel, camp site, hotels and bed & breakfasts. If you get there in time, it also boasts a rather good cafe that makes ice-cream from their own cows. The village also has a small church that has a memorial to Alfred Wainwright below one of the windows.
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| A pilgrim with Grey Crag behind |
The next section starts with a wander by the beautiful Buttermere
Lake, before rising steeply into the surprisingly wild Birkness Combe.
This is the haunt of rock climbers and if its reasonably dry offers a
route up Grey Crags for the scrambler. This is at the limit of
scrambling and is actually graded as a Diff rock climb, so unless you
are confident, you will need a rope and a companion.
Also
its pretty impossible to get up the little chimney on Harrow Buttress
with a large backpack (believe me, I've tried), so I recommend leaving
the sack at the bottom or hauling up this bit. Alternatively, you can
take the climbers descent path up the scree that borders the climbs or
ascend the steep slope to High Stile before you get to the crags,
although its worth entering the combe to experience the wild ambience.
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| Gable from Blackbeck Tarn |
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Once on top, follow the well frequented path over
High Crag and Haystacks to Innominate Tran, Wainwright's favourite place
where his ashes were scattered. Once past Blackbeck Tarn, take a small path toward Warnscale Head Bothy which is an old
quarryman's hut with a tremendous view over Buttermere. Its also a
great place to spend the night, especially if you bring something to
burn on the fire.
Day 3 Details
