Day 1: Garnett Br. - Priests Hole, 35km

This is a day of peaceful walking in the unspoilt valleys of Longsleddale and Kentmere,before linking the reservoirs of the great ridge of High Street to end  by ascending wooded Dovedale to the iconic cave of Priests Hole.

The Start - Garnett Bridge

The Pilgrimage starts at the sleepy little hamlet of Garnett Bridge, just 5 miles North of Kendal.  There is little parking here, so it's best to get dropped off, or park just past the junction of the Longsleddale road and the A6 at the designated parking place, and walk down the fields to the bridge. Call in at Cragg Cottage before you start and maybe share a cup of tea on the patio overlooking the river and the picturesque bridge.

Natural Longsleddale

The route starts with an easy valley walk that offers wonderful views up the valley.  There's a pool after 0.5km which is a peaceful place to pause and listen to the birds.  Take the path above Bridge End that rises on to the moor towards Brunt Knott.  After a short distance, a wonderful view opens up of Harter Fell at the head of the valley and the natural woodlands in the foreground.

From there, a boggy path leads through the bracken and grass, before turning up towards the summit of Brunt Knott from which there is an extensive view.  Retrace your steps for a short way, then follow the large track down to the farm and onwards over Staveley Head Fell to Green Quarter.  Maggs Howe offers camping barn accommodation.

There's little in the hamlet of Kentmere apart from the church of St Cuthberts.  A private road leads up the valley past the old green slate mines to the reservoir at the valley head.  This is a secluded place surrounded by steep grassy hills, one of which you will need to climb to reach the Ull Stone which lies a little way off the path.  Legend has it that the Ull Stone was half the dice of Ull the giant who threw it from Cockermouth in a fit of rage, but today it is infrequently used as a playground by climbers.

Back on the main path, you ascend to the pass of Nan Bield where there a well-built shelter makes a convenient place for a butty.  The rough path descends to Small water, a jewel of a lake set between Harter Fell and Mardale Ill Bell.  The large path is followed to the road-head which marks the Southern end of Haweswater, the reservoir formed by the controversial flooding of the hamlet of Mardale.  In dry periods, you can still see the remains of the old houses, long ago submerged to provide water for Manchester. 

Kidsty Pike from The Rigg

You are unlikely to be alone as you follow the lake round, but the view when you reach the crest of the Rigg is stupendous.  Savour the walk down to the RSPB Bird Hide just a little way up Riggindale.  The Golden eagle is thought to have disappeared now, but you may well see other birds of prey on the rough, pathless wander up Riggindale.


The route up Short Stile is all too obvious.  It is a steep and unforgiving slog up trackless grassy slopes, but it does take you into a wild ampitheatre where you will almost indubitably be alone.  The toil does end (eventually) to cross the old Roman Road of High Street to the little top of Knott.  The Roman Road must have been bottom of the list for Roman soldiers who would have been exposed to the wind and rain in full measure on this high level route from Windermere to Penrith. Our route takes us across the main ridge and past Hayeswater to Hartsop where there is a public car park.  In a short distance you will arrive at another car park by Brotherswater.  The lake's name was changed from Broadwater when two brothers drowned here in the 19th century.

Dove Crag from Dovedale

At Hartsop Hall you could take the track to the camp site next to the Brotherswater Inn where refreshment and accommodation await.  For those continuing, a delightful path slants up through natural woodland.  I prefer the upper path rather than thee valley bottom one, as this offers the better views. Once you reach the uppermost cove below the Hart Crag/Dove Crag Ridge, look for a small path rising left from a large boulder.

Priests Hole on a chilly day

This takes you to the Priest's Hole, a small cave under an overhang on Dove Crag.  There's a visitors book and its quite well frequented so you may not be alone.  Although its a bit tatty, a wall provides shelter and the location beneath the great overhang of Dove Crag is spectacular.  If you are lucky, its a wonderful place to see the sun rise to the East.


Day 1 Details