This day combines scrambling, ridge and valley walking so has something of everything and takes the pilgrim through some of the very best of the Lake District.
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| Beautiful Buttermere |
Whichever path you take, you'll end up at Gatesgarth, and thence Buttermere Lake. The view of the lake toward Scarth Gap is sublime, especially if its still and mists give it an ethereal quality. There's nothing very ethereal about the ascent of Robinson from Hassness. If you take the path its an out and out slog, or else you can choose the gill scramble that is marginally less of a grind. The ravine is actually quite spectacular but there's no denying its unrelenting nature.
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| Newlands Church |
Instead of following the ridge all the way to Dale Head, the route drops down the Northern ridge of Hindscarth to arrive at Low Snab. here you can have a snack or move on to Newlands Church which fully merits the descent from the ridge. The simplicity and peace of the place seem to radiate a rare calm, so pause and imbue the peace.
Passing the car park at Little Town, you pass the mine workings of Yewthwaite lead mine on the way to Cat Bells, the favourite of families over the years. Despite the people its an attractive little summit that is worth the out and back from the pass. Then its down to Grange for a cup of tea, perhaps at the cafe by the river where you can watch the world go by.
Castle Crag may lack height, but it makes up for it in character. You pass a camp site on the way through the woods. If you continue near the river you can access caves, once the home of the self-styled 'Professor of Adventure', Millican Dalton. The summit is believed to be an ancient hill fort and one can see why, as it sits in a commanding position above the Jaws of Borrowdale.
In Rosthwaite there's a small shop and post office as well as a tea shop and cafe. A bit further on is one of my favourite youth hostels - Longthwaite. This has its own little bar by a real fire and makes a very good place to stay.
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| A happy camper at High House Tarn |
If you carry on along the riverside path with its chains and rocks, you cross the river and follow the path toward Glaramara. If you fancy the scramble, leave the path when it rises up the hillside away from the stream and instead, follow the valley up to Dovenest Crag for a singular up and down scramble to a cave. This can be followed by another scramble up to Rosthwaite Fell and from there make sure not to get lost on the bumpy ground to High House Tarn.
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| Napes Needle |
After Allen Crags, the route joins the motorway at Esk Hause which passes Sprinkling Tarn, nestling beneath the
winter cliffs of Great End. At Sty Head you take the rather indistinct
track slanting upwards that leads to Kern Knotts and the Napes. This is a spectacular
traverse beneath cliffs riven by red scree gullies and takes you past
the famous Needle and Sphinx rock, before rising up past Sphinx Rock and
on to another scramble - Pinnacle Ridge of the Westmorland Crags. This
leaves you just short of Great Gable itself. Alternatively you could
walk up the Breast Track to the summit of Gable, but this is a very poor
second to the fabulous Napes. There's nothing else quite like it in
the Lake District.
More
scree takes you to the aptly named Windy Gap and you can then descend
yet more scree and traverse over to the North West ridge of Green Gable
or else take in the summit and descend the ridge from the top. In any
event, you'll end up at Black Sail Hostel, which is the Lake District's
only true mountain hut. You should book this in advance to be sure of a place.
Day 4 Details
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